Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Final Thoughts
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Back to Bangkok and Back to the U.S. ..or not?
I had to go to my friend Ashley's house to pick up my things, which she had kindly held on for me while I was traveling. T and I had to trade pictures, maybe eat our Raw lunch, and I wanted to get some mangoes for my mom all before I had to head to the airport at about 2 p.m.
I couldn't believe my time in Thailand was wrapping up!...after getting most of things on our itinerary, we discovered we needed to grab a quick lunch instead of the raw food. So, we went to the Tesco Food court – on Ratchada ( where we shopped and I got mangoes for my mom). After grabbing my food – I placed my cell on the table and kept a close eye on the time while I inhaled my chicken and rice dish. Taryn was sitting right across from me, enjoying her meal. After 15 minutes we finished, and I went to reach for my purse on my chair. But to my shock and horror, it was gone. My purse was gone. My purse stuffed plump and full of all things important and vital to my existence as a U.S. Citizen residing in Thailand was gone. My plane ticket, my passport, my eyeglasses, my camera, my wallet, my everything..was GONE! I Yelled and shrieked – realizing I didn't know how to call for help in Thai. It was the worst feeling in my stomach and my head. A flood of emotions crashing its way around in my body – I was angry, mad, sad, frustrated, embarrassed, shocked, and disappointed. It was not the way I wanted to leave Thailand. It wasn't how I wanted to remember my time. Help was not quick to come from the shopping center – which was really frustrating. After an hour after the incident, the security staff of the center took a long time trying to find the video footage of where we were. However, after much anticipation. They told us “Mot Laaw” - broken. Not working. I must admit I prepared myself for that answer. I didn't expect much from the security staff. I try to tell myself to calm down and think of the positives. But it's really hard. A lot of help and support from friends, my travel plans were canceled and I got information from my embassy and I am on my way back to the hotel, where I must tell them my room key is stolen. Great, a $30 charge! When I have no money. Awesome. Good thing they had my credit card on file for the deposit so I could pay for the room and the additional costs! In times of crises, shock, hardship, panic...its good to be able to lean on your friends. I leaned very much on Taryn and Ashley.
After leaving our hotel, I had to schlep all my belongings into a taxi shared with Taryn and we headed to toward the police station where I must get a police report for my stolen purse. After a painful hour in classic Bangkok traffic, we FINALLY make it to the police station, where I once again schlep all my belongings into the police station and attempt to communicate in pidgeon Thai and English. The police at the department were helpful and I got the needed report, thank God it wasn't a busy day! I peeked outside of the police station and there weren't a lot of taxi's available...and darn it! It started to rain. Perfect. It just completed my long, emotionally draining day. After 20 minutes and more rain, I gave up on the hope of getting a taxi and decided to hop into an open air tuk tuk – perfect for the rain. ( Please note a hint of sarcasm..ok, its heavy sarcasm!) The top of the tuk tuk was leaking and my bags were getting wet, and as the tuk tuk accelerated, I got even more wet. Alas, about 20 minutes later, I arrived at my kind hostess, Ashely's apartment. Where I was greeted with a warm hug, a cold bottle of spy (a wine cooler- very popular with the ladies in Thailand), and promises of savory pahd Thai in our near future! She made my day more bearable and we got the chance to catch up. It was meant to be – we joke. “Thailand just doesn't want to let you go!” Ashley lovingly exclaimed. The next morning, I was on my way to the U.S. Embassy to plead my case, fill out forms, pay my processing fee, and hope for a speedy way to get my passport and get home. However, after sitting in the waiting room for hours, running around here and there for new pictures, and searching for print outs of proof of this and that to prove the urgency of my need to get home, I was sadly informed that due to the cyclone crises in Burma, the embassy was even more backlogged the normal for passport processing. I tearfully accepted the news and tried to make the most of my time in Bangkok and decided to close out my bank account, do some shopping at the nearby mall, hang out at the Conrad hotel to regroup...and take advantage of a $8 massage that I was surely not going to be getting when I finally get back to the states.
I got home and Ashley informed me that she was going to be heading to Koh Samui for work – so I was going to be alone for my final days in BKK. Luckily, Taryn was kind enough to come out and spend another last night with me before I left. Saturday, we ended up going to RCA – Royal City Avenue, which is a row of slinky night clubs and lounges. We rocked it there for a bit and ended the night with pizza so we could have a good last morning together. The next morning we got up, grabbed some breakfast and lunch. Then we headed back to the apartment, where I gathered my things and hopped in a cab bound to the airport. It was the last time I was going to see my dear friends who were remaining in Thailand. I was sad, but I was also ready to come home after the traumatic events, and see my loved ones.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Back To Thailand and Into Ko Chang
Getting on that ferry, I never thought would be such an enjoyable time. The ferry also took our van, so we left our backpacks in the van and went on top of the ferry. I felt so invigorated. We sat front row on the very top of the ferry and looked out to the dark sea. The moon and stars were shining brightly and reflected off the sea and the wind felt incredibly strong – after the long day of travel ( about 12 hours all together, including layovers!) I was just thrilled to be on the ferry and breathing fresh air. It's those little moments where you're not doing anything noteworthy, but you're just enjoying the moment of the journey. I thought about all the amazing things we had done over the last few months and I was hopeful and optimistic about the future. It was a long and great trip - I was looking very much forward to getting some much needed island time.
When we left the ferry and started driving through the island, I was surprised to feel just how steep the roads were. I literally slid forward as we made our decent down our first of many hills.We zipped around the island for about another 45 minutes and FINALLY got to our bungalows. Our bungalow was very plain and it was not overlooking the beach, but it worked. We ate our dinner at our bungalow's restaurant , w hich over looked the ocean. After dinner we walked over to Taryn's friend's Bungalows and later went to a popular watering hole “the tree house” where an international crowd was chilling to nice downtempo. I was surprised how many people were out, but I was so tired from the day of travel and I had to cut the night short to get to some z's.
The next day we woke up and had breakfast. Sadly, it was a little overcast and it appeared that it was going to rain. ( Rainy season was beginning when we returned to Thailand) It was still nice and it ended up not raining during the day. Taryn and I enjoyed our day on the beach and later decided to rent motorbikes. It was fun to ride the motorbikes this time, but MY, how the roads are so steep that I could feel myself almost slip off the seats and the bikes as we made our ascents over the hills! It was a nice ride, but it started to get dark and there wasn't a lot of light on our part of the island. We ate a lovely little spot on the pier area. It was really windy – and then to our dismay, it started to rain. I, being extremely cautious, did not want to ride a motorbike in the rain – much less on the steep roads the island had. Especially after listening to the many stories of the foreigners who injure themselves on motorbikes. Luckily, a kind staff member agreed to give me a lift and Taryn braved the road on her own. After getting back to our bungalows, we decided to chill out and have dessert there – then went to bed. Koh Chang was all about relaxing after our long journey – and relax we did!
Friday, May 9, 2008
Ready to Raid the Tombs!
We left Phnom Pehn with hearts a bit heavy from the morning's experiences and sights, but we were looking forward to see more of the country. It's sad, because Cambodia is still trying to build itself. We see so many children who are living in horrible conditions, and they approach the foreigners for help. Taryn and I give what we have – but it just wasn't enough for all the children that come to us. We buy their books and trinkets, give food, and give what money we can spare – but its never enough. Again, another situation that frustrates us – because we want to help but don't know the best approach or what tools will help them in the long run. They look at us as rich – but as travelers on a budget we certainly don't have the means to help them all – even though we'd like to.
After about a 4-5 hour ride we FINALLY arrive in Siem Reap and we're excited to check out what the city has to offer. Since the city's big draw is Angkor Wat – it seems quite a bit more developed for the tourist that it's capital. There were just a few streets that were actually reminiscent of a tourist area in Cancun or some other resort town. It's surreal to see such pristine development with the sharp contrast of those areas that represent the majority of the country – not developed and lacking in opportunities and commerce. It's clear that Angkor Wat is a huge source of not only National Pride – but brings thousands of tourist who would never venture to Cambodia otherwise. Taryn and I stayed in a fantastic Guest house that was brand new and had the best staff and amenities for the price. We paid about $10 a night and had air con and cable t.v. In our rooms. We were happy! We purchased a 3 day pass to Angkor Wat – since it's actually a compound of over 30 temples which covers an area of over 20 miles! I thought it was just 1 temple, but its many. We figured it was a good idea to get a guide and tuk tuk for the first day, so he could introduce us to the temple and give us the history and information that we wouldnt get if we tried to go with our guide books. Such a great idea – but at the same time when you're there- you get Information overload! So much information is thrown at you, it starts spilling out of your mind and you can't take anymore – combined with the heat and humid and the relentless sun beaming down at you. Our first day checking out Angkor Wat was AMAZING! You just have pinch yourself because you can't believe you're actually there. It such a huge sight – and you can feel the history! I like to try to picture what life was like as we walk through the corridors. We got to see the temple where the move “Tomb Raider” was filmed. So much beauty. Took SOOOO MANY pictures.
The next day we went on our own, and it was tough. I had a rough start because my pictures were lost from a computer in the lobby of the guest house..so that was a bit stressful. Tears were shed at the thought of losing ALL my pictures from the whole trip. Long story short – it got resolved thanks to the wonderful help of the Staff – who went above and beyond what was required. The 2nd day was cool, but it was a little tough to try to figure out where we were in terms of the right temple, or the right area, or if we were reading the different Architectural sidenotes correctly to what was in front of us. Plus the heat. Oh, the heat and the sun can cause you to tire out quickly while trying to self navigate through the temples. I found myself sitting and just enjoying the sights a lot of the time. I'd get tired of flipping through my guide book ( which I purchased from some entrepreneurial children) The day before, we ran into our fellow TEFL'r Neesa, so we went out had dinner with her later that night. It included a lovely traditional Cambodia Dance Performance. Afterwards we watch a film on Pol Pot. The 3rd and final day of Angkor Wat – we were so motivated to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat. We got up at 5 AM and rode bikes which was about 30 minute ride- and took beautiful pictures. It truly makes a difference when you're there in the Sunrise – or sunset. The best time to photograph is dusk and dawn! After the sun had fully risen, we went and ate breakfast of scrambled eggs and fruit. I dont think the fruit was as fresh as it could have been. Later, after riding a couple miles to inner complex of the center temples – I got sick. Taryn was fine. But I, I on the other hand was throwing up pineapple at Angkor Wat! I was so sad – I was riding hard back by myself and would have to pull over whenever I felt myself about to vomit again. It's funny, because although some of the vendors saw me, stop and throw up – they still had the gumption to try to yell out, “Want to Buy some PINEAPPLE!?” I was pissed! I was sick and was in no shape to be riding a bicycle in the heat – and this woman had the audacity to try to get me to buy the very thing my body was trying to get rid of! I yelled ( I feel bad, but I was sick!) “No thanks , I'm Sick...UNBELIEVABLE!” After painfully negotiating with a Tuk Tuk – and $5 poorer ( I didnt think it was fair – but I was desperate and ill) I made my way back to our hotel and tried to re cooperate. I was sad that my last day that the temple had such a bright and hopeful beginning yet had a painfully ugly ending.
After resting, I was better and later in the evening Taryn and I ventured to a uber hip cafe called the “Blue Pumpkin.” This place gives the “supper club” a run for its money. We then wandered to a BEAUTIFUL hotel that demanded all of Siem Reap's attention. It was a ridiculously gorgeous hotel with a modern, minimalist interior and a gallery that begged to be viewed. The outside courtyard had awesome setting for dinner and drinks. I'm sure this place has been featured in Travel Magazines all over the world. It was awesome. Taryn enjoyed her cocktail and I enjoyed hot tea ( since I was still a little weak) there in the beautiful ambiance. The next morning we said our good byes and sadly boarded our bus for what we knew was going to be a crappy ride. For days we'd heard all about how the roads from Siem Reap to the Thai Border was poor and filled with pot holes. We just weren't prepared for it! Our friend Neesa took the bus from Thailand to Siem Reap and it broke down. It was raining which caused some cars to get stuck on the road. You'd think it wouldn't happen in this day and age. We heard through the grapevine that Thai Airlines has paid the Cambodian Government NOT to fix the roads – as to protect their route from Bangkok to Siem Reap. Isn't that ridiculous! But it happens in some way, shape, or form every where. We boarded our deplorable looking bus ( this is where Taryn and I realized that we could have a worse bus ride than our bus from Dalat to Saigon!!!) It was over sold and had no room for passengers' luggage or backpacks. There were people everywhere! Once we got on the bus ( we were picked up from our hotel by a Tuk Tuk) we got tons of evil eyes – because we were the last ones on and we were at the front. There was no A/C, no radio, no comfort, and no leg room for me. My legs were folded up in the fetile position as we tried to escape the time away. The aisles were all filled with everyone's luggage so when we made bathroom breaks – it was a long arduous process of moving luggage over so that one row could move and so forth. Taryn and I being in the front, luckily got to exit with ease. The staff of the bus – 2 additional Cambodian guys simply sat on luggage that was spilling toward the front. It was a zoo on that bus! Taryn and I were so ready to come back to Thailand. We missed it so much through our travels!
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Leaving on A Luxury Bus.. to Cambodia
We hopped on our bus from Saigon to Phnom Pehn, Cambodia. It was a pleasurable ride with very little delays. Crossing the border from Vietnam to Cambodia was relatively easy, sure, they took a couple of extra dollars from each person for themselves – but I guess it comes with the territory. After about an hour of lunch and waiting for our Visa On Arrival - we were on our way. After 2-3 hours we were at the capital of Cambodia and it was dark. We stayed at a guest house that was recommended by some fellow travelers in Dalat and bunkered down in our $8 room. We enjoyed a tastier Japanese meal than we had in Saigon and went home to sleep. The next day we made the most of our morning and hired a Tuk Tuk to take us to the “Killing Fields” and the S-21 Prison which was formerly a high school. It was a really dark and depressing morning going to all these sights that were the stage for such heinous crimes. My whole life I knew little of the Genocide that was committed by Pol Pot's regime in Cambodia. I can't believe it happened, it's so sad what these people had to endure. Pol Pot wanted to rid Cambodia of all educated people and killed those who he believed weren't pure. He favored the country people and put them in power. He also destroyed valuable historical artifacts, books, and anything about Cambodian Culture. After spending time in Phenom Pehn, Before we knew it, it was time to jump on our bus bound for Siem Reap – so we could see Angkor Wat.
More on Pol Pot and the Tragedy in Cambodia:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnSUd0eaj9w
Monday, May 5, 2008
Saigon A.KA. Ho Chi Min City !!!
What a painful trip! One of the most painful travel sections ( so we thought) ...all of the overnight buses were full – but somehow we were able to jump on an overnight bus. Trouble was, it wasn't a bus that was made for over night trouble. It was a normal shuttle bus that could fit about 20-30 people. Taryn and I waited around for this bus forever after they had picked us up from the hotel. A few hours passed and we were finally on our way. Sadly, we were on the bus with the worst bus mates ever! They were rudely smoking their cigarettes, listening to their MP3 players loudly – no head phones for them, and resting thier dirty feet on my seat and me!! They were listening to Dance electronic music – which I enjoy, but not when I am trying to sleep on a freaking uncomfortable bus bound for Saigon at 2 am. After Taryn and I finally get some shut eye, we discover our bus broke down...in the middle of nowhere and our backpack we being badly treated. ( Our backpacks were purchased in Vietnam and weren't the authentic brands – so we were constantly worried about our backpacks strength – and there breakables in Taryn's bag) Long story short, after pulling over a few times, and sitting for a few hours here and there...and many attempts to fix and start the bus ( which kept us awake all through the night/early morning) we were on our way to Saigon. Waking up on the bus was a trip – we were just in awe with the traffic – we thought we'd seen it all in Bangkok but it was a different beast in Saigon. Heaps of Motorbikes everywhere with no fear and going at fast speeds. When we reached the bus station – we discovered that many of the taxis were unwilling to drive us to our hotel – so we had to utilize that motor taxis – it was a trip. I wish I would have gotten a picture of the Motor Bike taxi driver surrounding us – trying to get us to ride with them and trying to negoitiate. After we'd selected our drivers – we were off. It was one of the scariest rides of my whole LIFE! I am not exaggerating. I think Taryn felt the same. I almost got hit. Mere centimeters made the difference from a really bad accident. After 20 minutes ( which seemed like an eternity) we reached our hotel. Once we arrived, we discovered the rates we saw in our Lonely Planet guide were no longer valid – and the hotel was a bit of our budget – so we search for a different hotel. After getting some breakfast and walking around the neighborhood we found a new place. We visited the Saigon art Museum and walked back to our new place. We napped for a bit at our hotel – then headed out for the night to check out all that Saigon had to offer in terms of Nightlife. What a city! It was awesome and we loved getting lost in the many streets and alleys. We enjoyed a sushi dinner, had some sangria afterwards at a tapas restaurant, then headed to a dance club to dance the night away...and Dance we did! The next day we were out for the count, perhaps it was the previous night of travel and the fact that it had been a while since we'd been out dancing enjoying the nightlife – that we just needed a day to re cooperate. The last day in Saigon we headed to the “War reminents Museum.” It was really rough to view all the pics, documents, and artifacts from that era. Going to school in the U.S. They really don't cover much of the Vietnam War – so it hard for us to understand the magnitude in which the war affected the Vietnamese. Even today, hundreds of babies are being born with birth defects – due to the U.S.'s use of the toxin “Agent Orange.” It's so sad that lives – that had nothing to do with the war or the choices of both countries regimes are suffering the consequences. It's really sad and frustrating when you see all these wrongs – and you want to do something to try to make it right, or simply just help. After spending a few hours in the museum we went off and grabbed a bite to eat before we had to depart for Cambodia. We had such a wonderful and memorable time in Vietnam. We learned a lot and really tried to immerse ourselves in Vietnam. I tried to read everything I could, talk to locals, and take in all that is what makes Vietnam what it is today. I love Vietnam!
Friday, May 2, 2008
More Fresh Air and Motorbike Rides!
From our Hotel in Hoi An, we jumped on a sleeper bus that wasn't nearly as pleasant or new as the bus from Hue to Hoi an...but just a little foreshadowing here, it wasn't the worst to come! The bus had a bathroom on board – but it was out of order..and it had a T.V. That kept playing cheesy Vietnamese music videos, using really bad late 80's/early 90's graphics...but hey, there was entertainment! Later we were treated a Bruce Lee Film – but it was all in Vietnamese even though the majority of the bus was foreign. After driving for about 4 hours we stopped at our “Dinner Restaurant” which was really casual and had plenty of school aged kids waiting for us at the bus driveway to hawk their delectable snacks and sodas to the foreigners after the long ride. We chilled there for about half an hour more and jumped back on the bus with no restrooms on board..Mind you, a bus of 30 to 40 people just had dinner and drinks ( although I, along with a few forward thinking individuals refrained from hydrating properly due to the lack of accommodating facilities for our bodily functions.)
A few hours into our night drive – we stopped in the middle of nowhere – where, that somewhere on a busy highway, which almost look a bit too residential for my comfort...I noticed the driver and a few passengers hop off the bus...a bathroom stop?? We all had to go...and yet I didnt see a facility in sight...and then, as I stepped out of the bus and peered into the darkness...it was then that I noticed and heard that there was a line of men simply doing their business on a front lawn of some building...Now, if I was male I would have probably done the same...but I couldn't. Taryn, I, and a few other girls quickly power walked over to another area we appropriately deemed for the gals. Many of the gals were relieved, but I left the area unable to do anything and was tortured for a few more hours until our bus made the next stop. It was a hellish ride and incredible – since as we left the impromptu restroom sight – I happen to notice a mere couple of blocks later there was a gas station. It was closed, but it was a gas station nonetheless. Only in Vietnam, folks. In all fairness, perhaps south east Asia. :)
The ride went by quickly due to me trying to sleep time away and in the morning we finally found ourselves in Nha Trang. Another beach town, we would have loved to be in, but had to wait for another bus bound for Dalat in. Oh, what a long ride. We waited another hour or so – and then hopped on a regular upright seated bus where the air con was HALF working in the hot and humid weather we endured...it was a long ride, after already enduring a hell of night from Hoi an. Taryn and I both tried to sleep – but the approaching turn and bends in the road combined with sudden uncomfortable,busts of heat kept waking us up. We stopped for lunch at yet another quaint lunch stop...in the middle of nowheresville. But this place had character. It had the interesting combination of a minature golf park and the home of a family. What rocked about it, was the it had really strong fans and water misters – so that we were cooled down as we waited for the foreigners' version of Vietnamese food.. ( It was funny, the Vietnamese passengers and drivers sat with the owners of the restaurant where as the foreigners sat in our little section – where each traveler group sat at their own table) After lunch at "Alice In Wonderland", we reluctantly hopped back onto the bus and 2 to 3 hours later were taken to cooler and refreshing climates that Lonely Planet appropriately referred to as “ Swiss Alps” esque.
Due to the fact it started to sprinkle and we were tired, we decided just to keep it simple and simply stayed at a hotel that was $10 a night due to the proximity of it and where our bus stopped. Mind you- that we look hilarious with our overgrown backpacks. ( Taryn with 2 – one on her back and one on the front of her body) Our hotel was everything but glamorous, which was fine with us. We decided to set out and make the most of our few days. We walked around and grabbed some hot cocoa and Taryn got Vietnamese coffee. After our warm beverages we walked over to the “Crazy House.” As we were on our way to the “Crazy House” we were stopped by a kind Vietnamese Gentlemen on a motorbike who offered his services as a guide. We had read about the tour guided who show you around in Dalat in Lonely Planet – and felt that due to our time constraints that this was a good way to go. We felt a genuine good vibe from him and gave him our o.k. To go on a tour with him the next day. After that we were pointed in the right direction to the Crazy house, which was "This an ode" to “Alice in Wonderland.” It's a crazy house that also serves as a guest house, although I myself wouldn't be able to get a good nights sleep there. It's a huge house that still is a work in progress – think winchester mystery house, minus the stairs that lead to nowhere and add many stairs that lead to kitschy themed rooms with spooky red eyed animals gracing your presence. After the visit to the crazy house we had dinner and called it an early night for our next adventure on the back of the motorbikes.
The next day we woke up early and greeted our friendly guides. These cool cats were what made our time in Dalat. Warm, full of life, and just plain happy to share their stories and culture of their country and community. Ray was a former soldier for the southern Vietnamese military; ( the side the U.S. Was fighting for) the many stories he had shared were heartbreaking as well as inspirational. After the south lost to the North – he was kidnapped essentially; and sent to the jungle where he was “re-educated.” He was kept there for about 2 years. Who knows or who could imagine just what he was going through day in and day out. I just felt so humbled by his life experiences...At the time I was reading “The Girl in The Photo.” It was the story about Kim Phuc, the girl who was in the picture that was said to have changed the worlds view on War in Vietnam. This book discussed a lot that I didn't know about the war in Vietnam. For one, it was a war that was rarely discussed in school and had heard a little about in College. The book shed a lot of light on the origins and effects that war had on the Vietnamese and world at large. I was grateful to be able to merry my new found information and lessons from the book with Ray, our real life historian. His friend and our other guide ( i can't remember his name - I had it written down but ..it's gone due to theft ) also was very helpful in painting vivid pictures about his daily life and what brings him joy. They both proudly shared their memory/guest books in which former customers enthusiastically gushed about their times with the duo. Everyone from around the world got the chance to make a meaningful connection with these two kind fellows. This for me, is what travel is all about. Being able to meet great locals of whatever your visiting and simply learning and living their way of life. Thats it. I feel so lucky and privileged to be able to do it.
Our day was filled with fun moments. We started off on the back of their motorbikes and listened to their colorful commentry as well sped along on the roads of Dalat. We stopped by at flower farms – beautiful photo op! Dalat translated meets – flower city. Loosely. We also visited Coffee farms, Silk Worm farms, chili farms, saw rice wine making, mushroom growing, ( gross – but I still like mushrooms) and saw a silk factory. It was an awesome time to check all of these things out. The smell of the silk factory is forever seared on my mind! It's really crazy how they get the silk from the cocoons...but very interesting to see it at all stages of the process!
After the motorbike ride we shared some coffee with our guides, talked about the day, thanked them dearly and then Taryn and I headed to the Sofitel to share some dessert and a glass of wine, the hotel overlooks a beautiful lake. Such a perfect way to end the day. For dinner we went to a wonderful French Restaurant and headed home to get ready for our night of travel.
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Beach Time, Tailors, and Motorbiking!
Hoi An is a beautiful beach side town – where we enjoyed Motorbiking around as well. We stayed in a cute Hotel called the Grasslands -situated in a neighborhood thats away from the hustle and bustle of the town center. There, we were greeted with Tea and fresh fruit. The service at the quaint Grasslands Hotel was wonderful. We motorbiked to The Swisshotel resort – where we enjoyed the amenities ( and not price!) for a few days and laid out under umbrellas, beach side. We took advantage of the great ½ off happy Hour – and enjoyed our first legitimate COSMO! ( In Hanoi – at the Sofitel Metropol – there was no Cranberry Juice- so we had the unpleasant experience of the confusion of our request of A Cranberry Vodka drink – that the staff recognized as a “Campari Vodka” ..wowza – double the alcohol! :P ) We got some things tailor made – I got a jacket, bathing suit, a dress, and a few over shirts for the beach. We left Hoi an with a bags a little more heavy. The last day we made our way over the river side – almost Venice, Italy reminiscent part of town – where there a heaps of upscale restaurants and great shopping. We were tempted to stay a day longer at the urging of a lovely expat who owned a bookstore/bookexchange in that area – who swears the “Mango Room” is hands down the best restaurant in Vietnam..Pretty bold statement pal! Alas, we were stretched for time – so we held back and stuck to our guns with our departure that very day.
Saturday, April 26, 2008
To The Citadel on Bicycles We Go
From Hanoi – we took a train to Hue. The Former capital of Vietnam. It is a city which holds a structure of National Pride. The citadel – where royal families once ruled Vietnam. It was huge- and the weather was nice, cool, and cloudy. Went there on bicycles and were treated to some truly warm Vietnamese hospitality where a few women kindly fetched some food for Taryn and I..however, due to my weak stomach – I was unable to hold it in and had to cut my visit to the Citadel very short as I was – getting sick in various areas of the compound. I went back to our hotel ( thank God we had a hotel – for our own personal bathroom... and slept my sickness off.) The next day Taryn and I biked around town and went to a temple and the saw the famous Pagoda. It was beautiful...so many shots taken! We laid around at a park with locals. We then went to a lovely 5 Star hotel and had a nice glass of wine and enjoyed the beautiful views Hue had. Later we had a delicious Mediterranean dinner and drinks with a few locals that Taryn befriended while I was sick the night before. It such a pleasurable time, I smile thinking of Hue. The next day we took a day bus to Hoi An – a quaint beach town!
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Hanoi - The Coolest Part of Our Trip!
What a great city! The epitome of East meets West. A well welcomed treat when Taryn and I grew tired of the extremely warm weather..It was nice to be actually – COLD! It was the most northern point in southeast Asia that we had been to. It's pretty amazing when you just stop and look out into the streets...motorbikes clearly outnumbered cars at least by 20 to 1. French colonization is clear in this city, especially where we stayed – in the French Quarter. We treated ourselves to a lovely little hotel – the Heart Hotel which provided us with free Internet and it also doubles as an art gallery. It is in a supreme location – everything was within walking distance. Highly recommend this quaint boutique hotel for the value! We enjoyed the serenity of the Lake and the Japanese Temple in the center where a traditional legend was said to have taken place– where locals and travelers alike mellow out. While in the French Quarter Taryn and I treated ourselves to a fabulous spa day at a beautiful Q Spa which overlooks the lake. We both got amazing hot stone massages, facials, and enjoyed sauna/steam room as well as the Jacuzzi. After our services we were surprised with a beautiful snack with a refreshing beverage on the top floor of the building. The room was stunningly cool – it had rock decored floors and exposed wooden beams that evoked calm and zen. There were lounge couches and chairs strewn about and a vast array of travel and lifestyle magazines to further induce our state of relaxed minds! This was bliss at its finest for a fraction of what it costs in the states. When we did venture out of the area – it was about a $4 ride to our rooftop bars – where Taryn and I enjoyed wine and cheese while savoring our visuals of Hanoi's Skyline where it met body's of water. We had epic Gastronomic meals – and strolled through the city's many museums. We visited the Hanoi Hilton where senator and Presidential Candidate “08, John McCain was held. It was incredibly heartbreaking to view all the artifacts from prisoners and read and hear about all the stories of the prisoners who were there simply standing up for the rights of Vietnamese and later POW s. We visited the Vietnam National Museum and Natural History Museums. A beautiful time in a beautiful city.
Monday, April 21, 2008
MotorBike...I Finally Did It !!!!

After many months of being teased with the ease and freedom of the ever elusive but much warned about Motorbike - I have finally jumped on one...and I like it!
Being on Cat Ba island -I observed the finely paved roads and the visual feast the island offered was just to sweet to not see...Every island local was touting their motorbikes - and I got tired of turning down the sweet freedom from someone else's clock and schedule...so the next morning - after our hotel guy offered a motorbike - as I first placed my foot
onto the pavement...I decided not to be so dismissive..I decided to give him and the bike a chance..Taryn was shocked at my sudden "O.K. -let me try it!" attitude - as I prepared to jump on the bike, I felt the " just do it" stares from our hotel guy and his friends - and they assured me it was really easy...staring at the finely paved 2 going on 3 lane street ahead of me -designed to accommodate far more traffic than it does it currently ( my guess is that investors put a lot of money into this island early on - and when the economic crash in Asia hit in the late 90's - that put a halt to things...but construction is back ...and its going full speed ahead - its insane to see them just plow into rock and cliffs to finish off the ambitious projects that were dreamed up) I jumped on and was pleasantly surpri
sed at just how easy it was! From then on - Taryn and I were inseparable from our Motorbikes for the whole day! We rode around the whole island - we saw places we wouldn't have been able to - had we done bicycles or even commissioned a taxi driver...It was liberating on many levels - it's nice to overcome this big fear of motorbikes and it was heavenly to feel the wind all around you as your ride though the misty karsts that decorate the beautiful island.
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Xin Chao from Vietnam!


This posting is for you Alexis! ;) New Country..New Language...yes, that's part of travel and Taryn and I are now humbled by our inability to pronounce Vietnamese..we've been so proud and albeit a little smug from our abilities to communicate simple things in Thailand and Laos - but in Vietnam it's a whole new ballgame. Taryn and I decided to fly from Vientiane to Hanoi - we just couldn't deal with a 28 hour ( ?? maybe more and more hell to endure!) bus ride...so we did a 1 day express visa deal and booked a flight bound for Hanoi. We weren't alone though- there were a few familiar faces at the airport from the much beaten tourist trail that Taryn and I had reluctantly been on ( and sometimes off - only to get back on again)..when we landed at Hanoi - it was exciting! We were thrilled to be transferring our money into new currency ( Dong) and head onto a new adventure. We joined fellow travelers ( Katie and Chase) in the techno music laden cab with an extremely affable driver who took us to an O.k. hotel in the Old Quarter section of Hanoi- where the room itself was just o.k. but the staff was amazing! After hearing about a pending storm that would be entering Ha long Bay ( a destination we were planning on heading to 3 or 4 days later) - we decided to impulsively book a 1 night- 2 day - all inclusive tour...now, we wanted to avoid packages - but we were just too tired to figure it all out in such a short time...and figured once we got to Ha long bay - we could figure it out after the package ran out and stay longer ( which the staff and Star Hotel said we could) so it was done. I had my first bowl of Pho in Vietnam and I was stoked! The next morning we got up and jumped in a van bound for Ha long bay! It is stunning - it is UNESCO world heritage sites and rightfully so! Once we hopped onto the pier - and I slung my Adidas duffel bag - with my broken staps ( I am the only again without a backpack - which i am still on the hunt for one!) over my shoulder and headed for our boat named "Imperial Junk." Its a common and "must do" things for visitors to view and take in Halong bay and all it's glory from an overnight cruise throughout the bay - there were hundreds of these Junk boats at the pier! They all have about 10 rooms for guests so its perfect amount of people on the boat - not too crowded and its just a treat be able to enjoy the awesome beauty of the 1,000's of tiny islands that are scattered about Halong Bay. Our guide said that Halong means - where the dragons tail descends - to create the many islands...
On the boat - Taryn and I were with about 6 or 7 couples - and there was one family -and then us! So, we were like the only pals on the boat - but we had fun and chatted up with a really friendly couple, Dom and Simon from Wales who have been traveling around the world since June 2007! They'll be heading in a month - but it was lovely to exchange stories and laughs from our tales of travels.
Included in our package - we got to Kayak, had meals, hike, bike, visit a monkey island, and ofcourse sleep in the middle of the gorgeous bay...it was a treat!
Now, Taryn and I are on Cat Ba island in Halong bay - where we deviated from our group ( since we didn't pay for 2 nights and 3 days on the boat) and found ourselves a decent hotel room for $10 whereas our former group members paid a little more and got their dinner included. But Taryn and I are enjoying saving our money and our time away from the group - its nice to do what we want - when we want and not have a timetable..Cat Ba is the biggest island in Halong Bay and its filled with cute hotels, markets, restaurants, and beach. It's very reminiscent of Positano or some cliff side community in the Mediterranean! Taryn and I and loving it and are contemplating staying another night..we are sort of on a time schedule - she has to return to BKK on the 2nd - so that leaves me to travel solo for about 5-6 days...so we'd like to see as much of Vietnam as possible and head into Cambodia together...but it's looking like it will be difficult to accommodate that..After we finish up with Halong Bay - we'll head back to Hanoi and enjoy the city.
Saturday, April 12, 2008
In Relaxing Laos
Saturday, April 5, 2008
A Quest To Do Our Own Trek/Homestay
Once we got here, we immediately greeted by mountains and the breathtaking scenary that is Mae Hong Son. It is a REALLY small town - with just a few major streets and a few restaurants and guesthouses - but there is an abundance of friendly locals willing to welcome you to their town. After checking at our guesthouse - which was overlooking the lake and 2 beautiful temples -Wat Pratad Doi KongMu ( sitting on top a hill) we dined at a restaurant with a friendly girl, Cristina who was from Spain. The town was so small - that we kept unintentionally bumping into her. We then got massages..
The next day we went for a long walk and found ourselves at a Thai resort that wasn't catered to westerners ( always nice to find) - it was like an oasis to us since we had been walking in the relentless sun. The family who owned the resort were kind enough to let us use their pool for the prices of 20 Baht ( about 70 cents) and enjoy frosty beverages. After enjoying our poolside escapades we decided we would head to Wat Pratad Doi Kongmu - which would be an intense walk to the base and the ascent would be just as fun! Once we got to the base - we looked up and admired the beauty but also knew it was going to be quite a workout getting up there. But along the way, we enjoyed the many vista points. Once we got to the top we were praised by a few locals, "Gang Mak!" - well done! We made it - bells were rung by Taryn for good luck and we walked around the Wat and snapped shots we then headed to the vista point - where everyone enjoys the beautiful sunset over the mountains in Burma. What a sight! We enjoyed the sunset over a few smoothies. After sundown, we headed back home.
To View Photos Visit: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/moniwelz/ChaingMaiPaiMaeHongSon?authkey=oD2OUuc3A8E
On Thursday we decided was going to be our day to start our quest for own on Trek. We wanted to try doing it on our own instead of an organized tour - since most of them have this rushed and - unauthentic feel to them..Taryn and I both felt it would mean more to go and meet the hilltribes on our own verses being with a group and a tour guide where everything was strategically orchestrated to satisfy the average tourist.... more to come!
Sunday, March 30, 2008
In Northern Thailand Now
Monday, February 18, 2008
Kanchanburi
More on Hellfire Pass: http://www.hellfirepass.com/
After the train, we headed over to the “Bridge over River Kwai.” You may have heard of the movie, I never saw it but I’ve been told that it’s pretty famous. The bridge was beautiful, and I again was able to get some great shots. After that, we were finished with the tour and Jess and I were exhausted. We went back to our guesthouse and enjoyed our watermelon shakes as we had the great timing for the sunset over the river. It was so relaxing and the perfect conclusion to our long day!
After the museum we rode our bikes back to our guest house and had lunch. There we
After we all finished up with the big tigers – we got the scoop that there were tiger cubs! We hurried over and saw them – they were so cute! They were like little kittens. Again, we got to sit with the cubs and take a picture with them. The cubs were just walking around free as if they were kittens, in contrast to the full grown tigers, who had chains or leashes – it was surreal! It was an epic day for me – it’s definitely something I would never ever be able to do back in the states! I am so glad I did it Another thing of my checklist!
Monday, February 4, 2008
Off to the Beach..Again!
When we entered the other beach, it wasn’t packed at all. There were only a handful of people compared to other beaches I have been to in the past in Thailand. It was a calming and trancelike walk that Taryn and I went on. It was like this never-ending space of beach, the sun was shining, the waves were crashing gently over our feet, and the breeze was strong but relaxing. So after our walk, we spotted this incredible resort along the beach and decide
The next day, Taryn and I decided to walk the other direction of the beach – which again, it was 7km, so It appeared to be never ending! After about 3 hours of walking ( we took breaks to enjoy the scenery, snack, and swim) we reached the end and were pleasantly surprised by yet another large golden Buddha and a quaint fishing village. W inquired with the locals as to where we could get a bite to eat, (we were looking to get a bite from a casual Thai restaurant) but they referred us to a lovely Swede run resort. There, we enjoyed another EPIC meal – complete with quite a few fruit shakes and wine! It was gluttonous activity at its best! After our meal, we figured it was best to he
Sunday, January 20, 2008
I Stepped in Elephant Poo
Who'd think I’d want a little break away from the city and the beach? This weekend I went to Khao Yai, which is a National Park in Thailand. It was a fantastic time – and get this, I actually needed a jacket (a light jacket, but a jacket nonetheless) while I was there. My friends and I went on an organized day tour since we figured its best to go with experienced guides and it just made sense. We did a 4 hour trek through the jungle – and on that trek, I stepped in Elephant Poo!! I was the only one who did. Just my luck. I always seem the one to experience an unfortunate event such as that. Thank God it wasn't fresh!
We saw gibbons (a species of monkeys with white faces), other monkeys, hornbills (toucan looking birds) wild deer, and others. This tour was pretty legit as far as animal watching goes – there were a few guys from California who had just came to Thailand to check out Khao Yai and they were serious outdoors guys. They were complete with their bird watching books, where they documented the many animals and bird species we had spotted throughout the day. So this tour was great in that arena. We then went to Hew Suwat waterfall – which
was the waterfall from “The Beach.” As with everything in the movies, it was different than I had imagined. The waterfall was smaller than the film made it out to be, but it was still such a beautiful sight. Then we went to the highest point of Khao Yai and watched the beautiful sunset while enjoying fresh slices of watermelon. (By the way, all the fruit in Thailand is amazing – I haven't tasted better fruit anywhere else in the world, the have fresh fruit shakes with no sugar added or power – just the pure stuff. That is one of the many things I'll miss about Thailand.)
The next day my friends and I went to a heavenly winery in the Khao Yai valley. The landscape and the climate reminded me of home, near the Napa Valley. There were rolling hills and rows upon rows of grapes. It was absolutely gorgeous. It made me a little homesick, but I again shook the sickness away and reminded myself that I am incredibly lucky to be here. We arrived at the winery and were pleasantly surprised. If you have ever heard about how wine was in Thailand, then you'd know that it's not a common beverage enjoyed amongst the Thais unless you're in a metropolitan or touristy area. My wine experiences of Thailand (when I could get it) weren’t too impressive, and I wouldn't consider myself a connoisseur by any means. But the wine my friends and I enjoyed on that Sunday was divine.
we arrived at the winery, we just had missed the scheduled tour by 10 minutes so we had an hour to kill. My bpen lai (no worries) as the Thai's say. There was wine and appetizers, heaps of amazing travel magazines (that only further ignite the travel bug I have), killer views from the acclaimed restaurant, The Great Hornbill Grill, and great company. We also got an unexpected free 10 minute massage to kick off the relaxing vibe of the property.
Post massage my friends and I went on and enjoyed a few glasses of vino and no sooner were informed that our tour was waiting with a few extra people. They asked us if it'd be alright if we did the tour with a television crew for channel 11 – we all looked at each other and shrugged and said it was fine. The tour was nice and informative. We got to taste the different varieties of grapes on the property and were filmed throughout each stage of the tour. Wish I could have seen the footage! Funny, we weren’t even asked to sign a waiver...a little different from the states! The winery and the National Park tour at Khao Yai made for a great weekend, I’d definitely do it again, especially since I feel like I only scratched the surface of the massive park.
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Short Trip To Pattaya
Monday, January 14, 2008
Ayutthaya and Lopburi
I am a weekend warrior!! This weekend I along with friends, headed to Thailand's original Capital and cultural megaplex, Ayutthaya, and then went to Thailand's Monkey Town, Lopburi. I took about a 2 hour bus ride into Ayutthaya and wondered the streets at about 9 p.m. for about an hour with Jessica searching for our guest house. Once we found the much recommended guest house, Tony's Place, we enjoyed dinner and drinks and had an early night. Tony's place was awesome; it was like sleeping in a huge tree house mansion! The next morning we woke up and had an amazing breakfast and proceeded to rent bicycles for the day. Ayutthaya has over 20 temples in such a small area. Ayutthaya is basically a small island surrounded by rivers – it's so unique. As we biked around the town, it was so cool to see all the ruins of a Thailand's former powerhouse and be able to navigate around the city without being at the mercy of bargaining with Tuk Tuk drivers or taxis. Seeing the ruins of the many temples was amazing! You could see and feel the history all around you! A shutter bug's paradise! Too bad all I had was my point and shoot camera!
More on Ayutthaya: http://wikitravel.org/en/Ayutthaya
After temple touring on our bikes, we met up with my friend Taryn who has her teaching placement about 1 hour from Ayutthaya. We handled transportation Thai style; I biked around a bit with Taryn on the back of my bike – which was no easy feat since the bike I was using wasn’t made for such a trip. We all got massages after checking out the only temple not ruined by the Burmese and meandered our way to grab dinner on the river. It was delicious and reasonable. We ate like queens for roughly $20 for the 3 of us!
The restaurant was beautiful; we ate right on a traditional boat on the river along the island of Ayutthaya. It was the perfect ending for our time in Ayutthaya! After dinner, Jessica and I said our good byes to Taryn and jumped our Lopburi bound train, in just the nick of time.
The particular train we jumped on was ok, it did the trick, but it was no “Euro Star,” that's for sure! After about an Hour, we arrived at Lopburi where our friends who teach there greeted us at the train station. We started out the night with plenty of Thai whiskey and exchanged our teaching stories and experiences in general. It was so neat to hear how each of our experiences vary so much! Some people have a completely different dynamic with their administrative staff or Thai teachers than Jessica and I. Let's just say we have to deal with a much more, dramatic and conservative administrative powers that be than others! We then all headed to the local club and danced the night away.
More on Lopburi : http://wikitravel.org/en/Lopburi
The next morning our Lopburi friends showed us around the town, which was so pleasant since the town is really easy to walk around. The town is known for its residents - more specifically its monkeys who roam about. They swing from telephone and electric wires and live in the center of town. It was surreal to see these monkeys just hanging out – no fences or bars, they live in the city! What's more crazy is that these monkey's are pretty aggressive if you get near them, which I chose not to! The stories I've heard was that the monkeys steal from you and put quite a few people in the hospital if you try to resist them taking your things or look at them wrong. The monkeys will seriously hurt you and could possibly give you rabies if they bite you- so you can understand why I chose to just enjoy the sight from afar!( Aplogies for no Lopburi photos but my camera battery died) All in the all, I enjoyed the weekend of seeing sights and meeting up with friends. That's what is so great about going through my TEFL program; I have a network of 60 people whom I trained with and can call up and visit through the many diverse regions of Thailand!